Chemical exfoliation is one of the most impactful changes you can make to your skincare routine. But AHA and BHA are not interchangeable and using the right one for your skin makes a significant difference.
Exfoliation has come a long way from the walnut shell scrubs of the early 2000s. Chemical exfoliants - acids that dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells to the surface are gentler, more consistent, and more effective than physical scrubs. But within chemical exfoliation, there are meaningful differences between AHAs and BHAs that are worth understanding before you choose.
What Is Exfoliation Actually Doing?
Skin naturally sheds dead cells from its surface through a process called desquamation. When this process works well, skin looks clear, bright, and even-toned. When it slows down - through age, dehydration, or skin type, dead cells accumulate on the surface, leading to dullness, uneven texture, congestion, and a skincare routine that can't penetrate effectively.
Chemical exfoliants accelerate desquamation by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed more readily. The result: a cleaner, more refined surface that reflects light better, absorbs actives more effectively, and produces fewer blockages. Skin will look healthier, more glowy, clearer, smoother and feel softer.
AHAs: Alpha Hydroxy Acids
AHAs are water-soluble acids derived primarily from natural sources. Because they're water-soluble, they work at the skin's surface rather than penetrating into the pore.
The most common AHAs in skincare:
Glycolic Acid - the smallest molecule in the AHA family, meaning it penetrates most deeply. Highly effective for resurfacing, reducing fine lines, and improving skin texture. The most potent, and most likely to cause irritation if overused.
Lactic Acid - larger molecule than glycolic, gentler action. Exfoliates while also acting as a humectant (drawing moisture to the skin). Ideal for sensitive or dry skin types that still want the benefits of exfoliation.
Mandelic Acid — the gentlest of the common AHAs, with antibacterial properties that make it particularly useful for acne-prone and sensitive skin.
What AHAs do well:
- Resurface skin texture
- Improve skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation
- Soften the appearance of fine lines
- Boost radiance and glow
- Support moisturiser penetration
Best for: Dry, dull, or ageing skin. Those dealing with uneven texture, sun damage, or hyperpigmentation. Normal to sensitive skin types wanting visible brightening.
BHAs: Beta Hydroxy Acids
BHAs are oil-soluble, and this is the critical distinction vs AHAs. Because they can dissolve in oil, they're able to penetrate inside the pore, where AHAs cannot reach.
The primary BHA in skincare:
Salicylic Acid — the gold standard BHA. Works inside the pore to dissolve the sebum and dead cell buildup that causes congestion and blackheads. Has anti-inflammatory and mild antibacterial properties, making it highly effective for acne-prone skin.
What BHAs do well:
- Clear congestion inside the pore
- Reduce blackheads and whiteheads
- Control excess oil production
- Prevent and treat breakouts
- Reduce inflammation around blemishes
Best for: Oily, acne-prone, and congested skin. Those dealing with blackheads, whiteheads, or consistent breakouts. Combination skin with congestion in the T-zone.
AHA vs BHA: The Key Differences
|
AHA |
BHA |
|
|
Solubility |
Water-soluble |
Oil-soluble |
|
Where it works |
Surface of the skin |
Inside the pore |
|
Primary benefit |
Resurfacing, brightening |
Decongesting, clearing |
|
Best skin type |
Normal, dry, dull, sun-damaged |
Oily, acne-prone, congested |
|
Key ingredient |
Glycolic acid, lactic acid |
Salicylic acid |
|
Sensitivity |
Can be more sensitising at high % |
Generally well-tolerated |
Our Top Product AHA & BHA Products
Many skin types benefit from both—particularly combination skin, which might be dry and uneven in some areas and congested in others.
ClariCleanse AHA & BHA Exfoliating Cleanser is formulated precisely for this: salicylic acid (BHA) works inside the pore to clear congestion, while lactic acid (AHA) resurfaces and brightens at the surface level. The two actives address different layers simultaneously - delivering the benefits of both in a single daily step.
For those who want a more targeted acid treatment, Glow-C Deep Resurfacing Toner combines three glow-boosting acids (8% glycolic acid + 1% salicylic acid + lactic acid) to accelerate cell turnover - revealing smoother, clearer, and more radiant skin. Ideal for those focused on texture, tone, and glow.
Blemicalm BHA 2% Clarifying Toner is a potent liquid exfoliant enriched with 2% salicylic acid and a microbiome-balancing complex that works to instantly purify and refine pores.
Resurfa AHA & BHA Exfoliating Serum is a dual exfoliating serum powered by 5% glycolic acid and 2% salicylic acid to reveal a smoother, brighter, more luminous complexion . Glycolic acid helps accelerate cell turnover, while salicylic acid unclogs pores and controls excess oil to help keep skin clear.
How to Use Acids Safely
A few principles that prevent the most common exfoliation mistakes:
Start low and slow. If you're new to acids, begin with a lower concentration used 2–3 times per week rather than daily. Your skin needs time to adjust.
Don't stack multiple acids in one routine. Using an AHA and a BHA simultaneously is fine in a combined formula, but applying multiple separate acid products in one routine, especially alongside retinal is likely to over-exfoliate and compromise the barrier. This can result in flakiness, irritation and stimulate an overproduction of sebum as your skin tries to counteract the impact of being stripped.
Always use SPF. Exfoliating acids increase photosensitivity by removing the dead cell layer that provides some natural UV protection. Glow-C Daily Moisturiser SPF30 every morning is essential.
Don't mix with certain ingredients on the same night. High-strength acids and retinal work better on alternating evenings rather than together - both are active and effective but doing both simultaneously increases irritation risk without adding meaningful benefit.
A Simple Guide to Choosing
"My skin looks dull and uneven, with sun spots or post-breakout marks" → AHA is your primary focus. Try Glow-C Deep Resurfacing Toner.
"I have blackheads, congested pores, and regular breakouts" → BHA is your primary focus. Salicylic acid daily in a cleanser or targeted serum. Try Blemicalm BHA 2% Clarifying Toner
"My skin is combination—uneven texture and oily/congested in places" → A combined AHA + BHA formula covers both, or alternate between targeted products morning and evening. TryClariCleanse AHA & BHA Exfoliating Cleanser and Resurfa AHA & BHA Exfoliating Serum
The Routine at a Glance
For oily/congested skin
- ClariCleanse AHA & BHA Exfoliating Cleanser (daily, morning & evening)
- Resurfa AHA & BHA Exfoliating Serum
- Glow-C Daily Moisturiser SPF30 (morning) + Supergel Oil-Free Moisturiser (evening)
For dull/uneven skin
- Glow-C Cream Cleanser (daily, morning & evening)
- Glow-C Deep Resurfacing Toner (2-3x per week, evening)
- Resurfa AHA & BHA Exfoliating Serum
- Glow-C Daily Moisturiser SPF30 (morning) + Glow-C Daily Moisturiser (evening)
AHAs and BHAs are two of the most reliably effective ingredients in skincare - when chosen correctly for the skin you have. Getting this right doesn't require a chemistry degree. It just requires knowing whether your concern lives at the surface or inside the pore.
Now you know!
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Still not sure? Don’t hesitate to reach out to our customer service team for personalised specific advice – they are always on hand to help you with any questions you might have about our products or how best to use them. Click here to send them a message.