It's one of the most debated questions in skincare. The honest answer is more nuanced than most brands will tell you.
Some say eye creams are essential, a non-negotiable step for anyone who wants to address the under-eye area. Others say they're a marketing invention - that any good moisturiser does the same job for a fraction of the price.
The truth sits somewhere more considered than both positions. Here's what the science and the evidence actually suggest.
Why the Under-Eye Area Is Different
Before the eye cream debate can be settled, it's worth understanding what makes the skin around the eyes genuinely distinct.
It's thinner. The skin around the eye is among the thinnest on the body - approximately 0.5mm compared to 2mm on other areas of the face. This thinness makes it more delicate, more prone to irritation, and more likely to show the effects of dehydration, ageing, and lifestyle factors.
It has fewer oil glands. Less sebum production means the under-eye area doesn't have the same natural moisturisation mechanism as the rest of the face. It dries out more readily.
It moves constantly. Every time you blink, squint, smile, or express anything, the skin around your eyes is in motion. Repeated movement in thin, relatively dry skin accelerates the formation of fine lines.
It's more reactive. The thinner barrier makes it more susceptible to irritation from ingredients that the rest of the face handles without issue.
These differences are real and meaningful. They're the reason the under-eye area has specific needs and why what you apply there warrants some thought.
What Eye Creams Are Designed to Do
Eye creams are formulated with these differences in mind. They tend to:
- Use gentler, more tolerable versions of active ingredients at lower concentrations.
- Prioritise hydration and barrier support for thinner, drier skin.
- Address specific under-eye concerns: dark circles, puffiness (and include specific ingredients for these as they aren’t concerns seen on other parts of the face).
- Exclude common irritants (fragrance, alcohol) that could cause sensitivity in this delicate area.
The question isn't really whether eye cream is a valid product - it's whether your current skincare already covers what you need, or whether a dedicated formula fills a genuine gap.
The Case For Eye Cream
If your regular moisturiser contains fragrance, high concentrations of actives, or ingredients that are too rich or occlusive for the under-eye area, a separate eye cream makes practical sense. It's a product formulated with the right balance for skin that has different needs.
Specific under-eye concerns also benefit from targeted ingredients that general moisturisers often don't contain in meaningful concentrations.
The Case Against (Or: When You Might Not Need One)
If your regular moisturiser is already fragrance-free, gentle, well-tolerated, and you're not dealing with specific under-eye concerns, it's reasonable to extend it carefully to the orbital area. Many people do this without issue.
The caveat: "carefully" matters here. Use your ring finger to press (not rub) a small amount around the orbital bone, not directly underneath the eye. Avoid anything with high concentrations of acids or retinoids in this area until you know how your skin responds.
If you're young with no specific under-eye concerns, a good moisturiser extended to the eye area may be entirely sufficient. As skin ages and specific concerns emerge, a targeted eye product becomes progressively more worthwhile.
Where Eye Cream Fits in Your Routine
If you use an eye cream, it belongs after your serums and before your moisturiser. This ensures it penetrates appropriately without being blocked by thicker formulas.
Apply with your ring finger—it naturally applies the least pressure of any finger, which is important for the delicate under-eye area. Gently tap (don't rub) around the orbital bone using small, patting motions. Let it absorb for 30–60 seconds before applying moisturiser.
Morning routine placement:
1. Cleanser
2. Toner
3. Serums
4. Eye cream
5. Moisturiser
6. SPF
Evening routine placement:
1. Cleanser
2. Toner
3. Serums (including retinal if used)
4. Eye cream
5. Moisturiser
Lifestyle Factors That Matter as Much as Products
Worth being honest about: no eye cream fully compensates for lifestyle factors that contribute heavily to under-eye concerns.
Sleep. The most significant factor in under-eye puffiness and dark circles. Consistent, quality sleep makes a more visible difference than any topical product.
Hydration. Dehydration shows up quickly and visibly around the eyes. Drinking enough water supports what your skincare can do topically.
Sun protection. Fine lines around the eyes are significantly accelerated by UV exposure. Use SPF and cover them with sunglasses when out and about.
Rubbing your eyes. Habitual eye rubbing causes cumulative mechanical damage to already-thin skin. Worth being mindful of.
The Honest Verdict
Do you need an eye cream? Not always. But for anyone with specific under-eye concerns - puffiness, dark circles, fine lines, or under-eye dehydration, a formulation designed for this area will outperform a general moisturiser, because it's been built for a different set of needs.
If you're using products that are already gentle and well-tolerated around the eye area, and you have no specific concerns, your existing moisturiser may serve you well. If you're dealing with dark circles, puffiness, or the first signs of fine lines in this area, a targeted formula is worth the step.
It's not about filling your shelf. It's about filling the gaps your routine actually has.
Facetheory's Eye Care Range
All four products in the Facetheory eye care range are unfragranced and formulated specifically for this delicate zone, with actives calibrated for the skin that lives around your eyes.
Glow-C Eye Cream Hexylresorcinol | Vitamin C
The brightening, wake-me-up eye cream. If dark circles and a general look of fatigue are your primary concern, this is the one. Hexylresorcinol - a powerful brightening and antioxidant active teams up with stabilised vitamin C to reduce the appearance of dark circles, deliver antioxidant protection, and smooth fine lines. The lightweight, fast-absorbing texture layers effortlessly under makeup, making it the natural choice for mornings when you need your eyes to look more awake before anything else happens. Use morning and evening for the best results, and expect a visible difference in brightness within a few weeks of consistent use.
Peptide Firming Eye Cream Peptide Complex | 1.5% Hexylresorcinol | Vitamin C
The all-rounder for anyone whose eye area concerns go beyond dark circles. A potent peptide complex works to improve firmness, elasticity, texture, and tone over time, while 1.5% hexylresorcinol provides antioxidant protection. Vitamin C brightens, ferulic acid amplifies the antioxidant effect, and botanical extracts - elderflower, hibiscus, ginkgo biloba bring additional skin-supporting benefits to a formula that addresses the eye area from every angle. Jojoba, argan, and rice bran oils deliver lasting hydration without heaviness. Use morning and evening after serums and before moisturiser.
Retinal Supreme Eye MultiBalm Encapsulated Retinaldehyde | Granactive Retinoid® | Vitamin C | Ceramides | Squalane
The most advanced eye treatment in the range. Encapsulated retinaldehyde (one conversion step from prescription-strength retinoic acid) is released gradually overnight, visibly smoothing fine lines, firming skin, and improving the five most visible signs of eye ageing: lines, fatigue, discolouration, dullness, and dryness. Granactive Retinoid® and marine bio-retinol (Chlorella Vulgaris Extract) layer additional retinoid activity. A rich base of shea, cocoa, and mango butters melts into skin and seals in moisture; ceramides and squalane help reinforce the barrier.
Evening use only, as retinaldehyde is photosensitive. Start 2–3 nights per week and build gradually. Always use SPF the following morning. Best used as part of the Facetheory retinal routine alongside Retinal Supreme MultiCream.
Day & Night Eye Duo Glow-C Eye Cream + Peptide Firming Eye Cream
The smarter way to build a complete eye routine. The Day & Night Eye Duo pairs the Glow-C Eye Cream (your morning brightening and antioxidant step) with the Peptide Firming Eye Cream (your all-concerns evening treatment) at a saving on the individual prices. Morning and evening, the two products cover the full spectrum of eye area concerns - dark circles, puffiness, fine lines, loss of firmness, and fatigue - in a routine that's simple, targeted, and complete. If you're starting your eye care routine for the first time or upgrading from a single product, this is the most logical and most cost-effective place to begin.
How to choose:
If dark circles and brightness are your main concern choose Glow-C Eye Cream
If fine lines, firmness, and overall eye area ageing are your focus go for Peptide Firming Eye Cream
If you want the most advanced, retinal-powered treatment for all eye area concerns we recommend Retinal Supreme Eye MultiBalm (evenings only)
If you want a complete day and night routine in one purchase the Day & Night Eye Duo is a great choice.
New to Facetheory? Still not sure what’s right for you? Take our Skin Quiz for a personalised routine built around your specific concerns - or build your own bundle and save 25%.